Each write-up below names a common cabinet problem and gives a rough cost to fix it.
Espresso maple, thermofoil, melamine, oak and factory shaker each need their own prep, so they are split into separate pages.
We unscrew every door and drawer front; each one is degreased and sanded, takes a primer chosen for its material, and receives a tough sprayed enamel before it is rehung. Kitchen cabinet painting gives the room a new colour while the counters, sink and floors stay exactly where they are.
See Kitchen Cabinets
Dark espresso maple and brown thermofoil can be painted white, greige or any light colour when the factory finish is scuffed and sealed under a bonding primer first. Espresso cabinet painting takes one more primer step than a light kitchen, and that step is what keeps the brown from showing through.
See Espresso Cabinets
Oak needs a stain-blocking primer so its tannin does not rise through the new colour, and a choice about whether to fill the open grain. When oak cabinet painting follows those two steps, the finish stays clean and even for years.
See Oak Cabinets
Refinishing leaves the grain on show: we sand or strip the old coat, stain the wood to a new tone and spray a fresh clear finish over it. It is the right choice when the wood is worth showing, and paint is the right choice when it is not.
See Refinishing
Sprayed coats land as a fine mist that flows level before it dries, so the finished door has no brush lines at all. Cabinet painting done with a sprayer looks like a factory finish instead of a weekend project.
See Spray Painting
Slick factory surfaces need a bonding primer made to grip them, because ordinary primer slides off. Sound melamine, laminate and thermofoil all accept cabinet painting, although a vinyl face that is already peeling is beyond what paint can rescue.
See Thermofoil and Melamine
New doors and drawer fronts hang on the boxes you already own, and the frames and end panels are coated to match. When only a few doors have failed, those pieces are replaced and finished along with the rest in the same cabinet painting job.
See Refacing and New Doors
White or warm white on the upper cabinets with navy, sage or charcoal below is the look most people ask about, often with the island in the darker colour. Island cabinet painting on its own is also a full job we quote separately.
See Two-Tone and Islands
One vanity usually needs a single day, now and then two, which makes it our smallest booking. The vanity's fronts ride to our booth and its base is finished where it sits, so the bathroom is usable again soon after the cabinet painting wraps up.
See Bathroom Vanities
Stacked townhouses and condo towns usually have compact kitchens with ten to twenty doors, so the work moves quickly. Condo cabinet painting goes smoothly when parking, access and the board's rules are sorted out before the first day.
See Condo Kitchens
Pantry cabinets, laundry uppers, mudroom lockers, basement bars and built-in desks all get the same primer and sprayed enamel as the kitchen. Since most of them are anchored in place, we carry out this cabinet painting on site inside a sealed plastic enclosure.
See Pantries and Built-Ins
Unused pull holes are plugged and filled flush, and fresh holes are bored with a jig so the pulls sit level along each run. Tired hinges can be changed to soft-close models while the doors are down for cabinet painting.
See Hardware and Hinges
Warm white tops the request list, followed by soft cream, greige, sage, navy and charcoal, yet a tiny chip from the paint store gives little idea how each will read in your house. We spray one of your doors in the actual shade and leave it in the kitchen, so the cabinet painting choice happens in your own light.
See Colour ConsultationCount the doors, tell us the finish, and we will price it on paper after a visit. Neither step costs a dollar, and no signature is needed.
Colour, door style, rough age: note whatever you can, and expect a call to pick a day. Just a name and number will send it. You can also call us at +1 (289) 206-9978.
